NYFW Exclusive Coverage: Flushed Cheeks and Red Lip at Helmut Lang S/S 2014

“Effortless” was the idea behind the gorgeous red lip and flushed cheeks that lead makeup artist Hannah Murray, working for NARS Cosmetics, created for the Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2014 show.

Makeup
“This look is an elevated version of the typical Helmut Lang girl. The skin is very fresh, flushed and sporty, with a cherry lip,” explained Murray.

The skin was prepped with NARSskin Optimal Brightening Concentrate and NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream, evened out with Radiant Creamy Concealer and set with Loose Powder. For a flushed within effect, Golshan Satin Lip Pencil was mixed with Fire Down Below Lipstick and applied slightly lower than the cheeks before foundation.

Brows were kept natural with Oural Brow Gel and there was nothing on the eye other than Triple X Lip Gloss.

The lips, the focal point of the look, was created by mixing two colors, Het Loo Satin Lip Pencil and Golshan Satin Lip Pencil for a 90s grunge look, then diffused to a wash with a dome-shaped blending brush.

Nails
Michael and Nicole Colovos working for essie gave models a sheer pop of pink on the nails to complement the collection. essie ridge filing base coat was applied, followed by one coat of essie sugar daddy polish and a coat of essie good to go top coat for shine.

Hair
“The look was inspired by Helmut Lang’s designs, which were a nod back to the ’90s. I wanted the hair to have strong, clean lines to balance the baggier clothes. It is a bit masculine, but chic, and refined,” explained Lead Stylist Paul Hanlon for UNITE Hair. The idea is a “very controlled look by slicking the hair down and around the face, but not making it look crunchy or too shiny. We used products that would control the hair, but not make it too hard.”

Paul started by prepping the hair with the UNITE 7Seconds Condition before blow-drying with a paddle brush to achieve pin-straight locks. Next, he applied UNITE Session Whip, a weightless mousse to give the hair girth, but not hold. He created a distinct part with a rattail comb while continuing to blow dry the hair straight down. Next, he took 2-inch sections of hair and sprayed the roots of each one with the UNITE Max Control Hairspray while using a blow dryer to set the hair. He pulled the hair into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck and secured with an elastic before wrapping a black leather hair accessory designed by Helmut Lang. Finally, he pulled out some of the baby hairs for an effortless, natural look.