Runway Beauty Breakdown: Marc Jacobs at Spring 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Just as he told me at the NARS Loves Chicago event, François Nars did makeup for the Marc Jacobs show again at the Spring 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Inspiration: The look of the Marc Jacobs collection was inspired by the contemporary dancer, Martha Graham: Old-fashioned and theatrical but graceful and precise. At the same time, however, there was a darker side that was shone through: a quality of gothic romance. Ballerinas with a sense of mystery- as if part of them, along with some of their makeup, had been left behind on stage.

The Look: Left-over stage makeup. The models weren’t meant to have perfect makeup- rather, they were meant to encompass a “just came off-stage” effect. “Dancers in theater and opera always have white faces, pointed lips and an eye that is drawn outward, not upward-it’s very theatrical, very ballet,” said François Nars. He stressed the importance of the eye for this look, noting that “the shape of the eyeliner is important- it should open the eyes, especially underneath. The slashes of white is something they used to do in the 70s- it brings a 3-dimensional feeling to the makeup.”

Blend Siberia Sheer Matte Foundation onto the face. Set with Snow Loose Powder for a white, pirouette-clown look. Subtly contour and highlight, if necessary, with Hungry Heart Blush Duo

Dust the white shimmer from the left side of Pandora Duo Eyeshadow on the eyelid. Use D.Gorgeous Single Eyeshadow (New for Spring 2010) in the crease. Using Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches on the top and bottom lids, follow the shape of the eye, elongating it just past the outer corners but keeping the line straight and out, never moving upwards. Use Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil to enhance the eye. After applying two sets of false eyelashes, apply one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara followed by one coat of Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara

Apply Pop Life Velvet Matte Lip Pencil (new for Holiday 2009) to upper and lower lips, adding an extra layer on the top lip. Dab your finger along the lower lip to lightly fade the color so that the top lip is darker.

Click here for François’ work at the Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 show.