The graphic eyeliner trend continued to be a hit this fall with makeup artists interpreting the look in an even more unconventional, modern manner. At Anthony Vaccarello A/W 2014, red lipstick and black liquid eyeliner were applied on models’ lids and under their eyes with dental flossfor a “sophisticated and arty cool” look. At Marchesa, gel and liquid eyeliner in shades of blue and green were layered over each other for a feminine look while Zac Posen presented us with a “black swan” graphic eye with feather-like strokes at the inner and outer corner of the eyes.
Bleached brows makes a comeback this fall. Alexander Wang A/W 2014 presented a balance between light and shadow by pairing barely-there brows with very light foundation and slightly contoured cheekbones and lids. Then Pat McGrath created an “otherworldly and surreal” look at Givenchy with sculpted eyes and cheeks contrasted with bleached-out eyebrows and crimson tapes on the temples. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars created real-life mannequins by giving models a matte, porcelain complexion with frosted metallic silver lips, chocolate creases and brows that were bleached and dyed to the same shade as their wigs.
NARS Cosmetics turns 20 this year and in celebration, the brand introduces The NARS Vault, a finely curated, limited-edition set of 10 lipsticks from the new Audacious Collection and 10 nail polishes in a full range of shades from neutral nudes to striking reds, packaged in an exquisite keepsake box with a large mirror etched with a quote from founder François Nars. Definitely a must-have for all NARS fans!
For Autumn/Winter 2014, makeup has become something of a beautiful paradox: it’s about artistry to achieve something that looks essentially un-cosmetic (thanks to ever more sophisticated and subtle makeup formulations and applications). Masking and morphing feels irrelevant this season; a quiet alchemy of product and technique that nonchalantly amplifies what is unique in the face is the new stealth wealth of makeup. “The new luxury is in individuality,” confirms Gordon Espinet.
There is a confident subtlety in all these beauty directions. “There is no absolute formula to how makeup has to look to appear modern now,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is a freedom to experiment and a confidence to break away from conventional means of constructing beauty.” Hence nuances of texture (transparent lightness is more important than heavy opacity this season), combined with unpredictable colors (“off” colour is distinctly “on” trend) and non-prescriptive placements form the new technical vocabulary that makes these trends look distinctly fresh and “now”.