Bleached brows makes a comeback this fall. Alexander Wang A/W 2014 presented a balance between light and shadow by pairing barely-there brows with very light foundation and slightly contoured cheekbones and lids. Then Pat McGrath created an “otherworldly and surreal” look at Givenchy with sculpted eyes and cheeks contrasted with bleached-out eyebrows and crimson tapes on the temples. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars created real-life mannequins by giving models a matte, porcelain complexion with frosted metallic silver lips, chocolate creases and brows that were bleached and dyed to the same shade as their wigs.
For Autumn/Winter 2014, makeup has become something of a beautiful paradox: it’s about artistry to achieve something that looks essentially un-cosmetic (thanks to ever more sophisticated and subtle makeup formulations and applications). Masking and morphing feels irrelevant this season; a quiet alchemy of product and technique that nonchalantly amplifies what is unique in the face is the new stealth wealth of makeup. “The new luxury is in individuality,” confirms Gordon Espinet.
There is a confident subtlety in all these beauty directions. “There is no absolute formula to how makeup has to look to appear modern now,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is a freedom to experiment and a confidence to break away from conventional means of constructing beauty.” Hence nuances of texture (transparent lightness is more important than heavy opacity this season), combined with unpredictable colors (“off” colour is distinctly “on” trend) and non-prescriptive placements form the new technical vocabulary that makes these trends look distinctly fresh and “now”.
Amazonian jungle beauty served as inspiration at Mara Hoffman Resort 2015. As a result, Celebrity Makeup Artist and Global Artistic Director for Stila Cosmetics Sarah Lucero created tropical green eyes and rainforest dewy skin. “Mara wanted a full brow and a pop of emerald in the corner of the eyes – Brooke shields meets blue lagoon!” explained Sarah.
Celebrity Makeup Artist and Global Artistic Director for Stila Cosmetics Sarah Lucero created the most perfect “sun-kissed sirens” at the Clover Canyon Resort 2015 show for Miami Mercedes Benz Miami Swim Week. “The makeup was minimal with a fun pop of color. Skin was kept young, fresh and healthy and just warmed up with orange tones on both the face and lip.” explained Sarah.
At Chanel Fall 2014 Couture Show, models rocked spiky punk hairdos and minimal makeup that consisted of a winged eyeliner with a pop of gold and silver and nude lips. “It’s like modern sculpture, in modern materials, but with baroque elements,” Karl Lagerfeld said backstage. “This is the story of Le Corbusier going to Versailles.”
At Atelier Versace Fall 2014 Couture, the idea was “couture-modern, but also something graphic, aerodynamic, and fun”. As a result, lead makeup artist Pat McGrath created a dramatic two-toned cat eye in shades of teal by first covering the entire lid with a lighter color then contrasting it with a darker shade around the crease and winged towards the temple. Brows were groomed and the lips given a neutral color, which provided the perfect balance. To dupe the look at home, try this instead.