NYFW might have just kicked off yesterday but blue eyeshadow has already popped up at quite a number of shows. And at Dannijo Spring/Summer 2015, Maybelline makeup artist Yadim created modern tribalism with 2 different looks featuring shades of blue and bronze on the eyes. “Though the shades varied, each models’ makeup was similar so they looked a part of the same tribe – gorgeous and radiant.” explained Yadim.
To complement the vibrant colors and tribal prints in the African sunset-inspired Yoana Baraschi Spring/Summer 2015 Collection, butter LONDON Global Colour Ambassador Katie Jane Hughes teamed up with RUSK Artistic Director Gerard Caruso to give models a fun look that consisted of graphic white eyeliner, red lips and a messy bun.
At Athleta Spring/Summer 2015, key makeup artist Talia Shobrook working for Temptu Beauty chose a palette of feminine yet powerful colors to showcase the strong, sporty woman with a high fashion edge portrayed in the collection. “The look was a strong woman – someone who isn’t scared to show too much skin”, Talia explained. “For me, it’s a new thing – I’m calling it ‘Flawless Fun’. Fitness is such a huge part of our lives today, and flawless, healthy-looking skin is always the look I strive for. Even with a bold pop of color, the focus is always on a flawless complexion that exudes health”.
The graphic eyeliner trend continued to be a hit this fall with makeup artists interpreting the look in an even more unconventional, modern manner. At Anthony Vaccarello A/W 2014, red lipstick and black liquid eyeliner were applied on models’ lids and under their eyes with dental flossfor a “sophisticated and arty cool” look. At Marchesa, gel and liquid eyeliner in shades of blue and green were layered over each other for a feminine look while Zac Posen presented us with a “black swan” graphic eye with feather-like strokes at the inner and outer corner of the eyes.
Bleached brows makes a comeback this fall. Alexander Wang A/W 2014 presented a balance between light and shadow by pairing barely-there brows with very light foundation and slightly contoured cheekbones and lids. Then Pat McGrath created an “otherworldly and surreal” look at Givenchy with sculpted eyes and cheeks contrasted with bleached-out eyebrows and crimson tapes on the temples. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars created real-life mannequins by giving models a matte, porcelain complexion with frosted metallic silver lips, chocolate creases and brows that were bleached and dyed to the same shade as their wigs.
For Autumn/Winter 2014, makeup has become something of a beautiful paradox: it’s about artistry to achieve something that looks essentially un-cosmetic (thanks to ever more sophisticated and subtle makeup formulations and applications). Masking and morphing feels irrelevant this season; a quiet alchemy of product and technique that nonchalantly amplifies what is unique in the face is the new stealth wealth of makeup. “The new luxury is in individuality,” confirms Gordon Espinet.
There is a confident subtlety in all these beauty directions. “There is no absolute formula to how makeup has to look to appear modern now,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is a freedom to experiment and a confidence to break away from conventional means of constructing beauty.” Hence nuances of texture (transparent lightness is more important than heavy opacity this season), combined with unpredictable colors (“off” colour is distinctly “on” trend) and non-prescriptive placements form the new technical vocabulary that makes these trends look distinctly fresh and “now”.