If there’s one thing that A/W09 makeup is about, it’s a point of view. And a point of power. We’re past a point of girlish innocence and barely-there makeup, especially in a season where beauty is working alongside fashion that holds no bars in terms of brazen styling and attitude. Artists are talking about ’emotive makeup’, and the spirit they are channeling is that of a woman who’s upbeat, in charge and in control. The main energy? Eighties. Hence, artists found their way to ultra-amplified lips and exuberant hues on the eyes (Who’s that Girl?) and an underground clubby elegance to black eye makeup (Lid Vicious) but also the more nuanced side of the era, picking up on the contoured, carved face that dominated the decade (Sculpture Club) or the satinized perfection and couture feel that moved makeup into the early Nineties (New Romantics). Speaking of technique, what’s back is one of absolute precision and accuracy. “Whatever the final look this season, it was always pretty obvious that the girl was wearing a structured, deliberate makeup” says Gordon Espinet. So, five minute makeup is over, for now. Time to roll out those brushes and get perfecting….
“There are thousands of sheer and natural colors. It’s time tob e surprising, revolutionary, edgy. Inspired by architecture, these are colors you’ll now dare to wear.” — Jin Soon
From “Back to Black” beehive and eyeliner to Steven “80s” Sprouse-in-the-House kohl and fringe to Gareth Pugh London New Goth, Black is simply beyond. Lips, nails, eyes – there’s no more dramatic way to declare your desire, separate your sensibility, celebrate your magnetism. They WILL surrender to a Blackfire Glimmerglass, Rapidblack Penultimate Eyeliner, a slash of Greasepaint Stick, and the hot scratch of Baby Goth Girl Nail Lacquer. Style Black is a way of life, a shadowy and mysterious figure of fantasy, even for just one dark and dangerous night.