The graphic eyeliner trend continued to be a hit this fall with makeup artists interpreting the look in an even more unconventional, modern manner. At Anthony Vaccarello A/W 2014, red lipstick and black liquid eyeliner were applied on models’ lids and under their eyes with dental flossfor a “sophisticated and arty cool” look. At Marchesa, gel and liquid eyeliner in shades of blue and green were layered over each other for a feminine look while Zac Posen presented us with a “black swan” graphic eye with feather-like strokes at the inner and outer corner of the eyes.
Bleached brows makes a comeback this fall. Alexander Wang A/W 2014 presented a balance between light and shadow by pairing barely-there brows with very light foundation and slightly contoured cheekbones and lids. Then Pat McGrath created an “otherworldly and surreal” look at Givenchy with sculpted eyes and cheeks contrasted with bleached-out eyebrows and crimson tapes on the temples. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars created real-life mannequins by giving models a matte, porcelain complexion with frosted metallic silver lips, chocolate creases and brows that were bleached and dyed to the same shade as their wigs.
For Autumn/Winter 2014, makeup has become something of a beautiful paradox: it’s about artistry to achieve something that looks essentially un-cosmetic (thanks to ever more sophisticated and subtle makeup formulations and applications). Masking and morphing feels irrelevant this season; a quiet alchemy of product and technique that nonchalantly amplifies what is unique in the face is the new stealth wealth of makeup. “The new luxury is in individuality,” confirms Gordon Espinet.
There is a confident subtlety in all these beauty directions. “There is no absolute formula to how makeup has to look to appear modern now,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is a freedom to experiment and a confidence to break away from conventional means of constructing beauty.” Hence nuances of texture (transparent lightness is more important than heavy opacity this season), combined with unpredictable colors (“off” colour is distinctly “on” trend) and non-prescriptive placements form the new technical vocabulary that makes these trends look distinctly fresh and “now”.
Looks like Chanel is continuing its color streak from Spring all the way to Fall. At the Chanel A/W 2014 show, models showed off full brows and flawless skin (courtesy of the upcoming The Complexion Perfection Lumiere Velvet Foundation) paired with a dab of Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Canaille on the cheeks and a silvery eye contrasted with a colorful wing in shades of pink, green, orange and blue. How cool!
At the Lanvin A/W ’14 show, makeup artist Pat McGrath revisited the smudgy eye makeup look at Chanel Fall 2010 and gave it a twist. Models’ lids were covered with a cream-based black liner that was smudged out and faux lashes that were cut clean and square were added for contrast.
Makeup artist Pat McGrath never ceases to amaze me with her skills and creativity and at the Dior A/W 2014 show, she created a high-impact graphic glitter eye in shades of blue and khaki using theatrical latex paint.