For Autumn/Winter 2014, makeup has become something of a beautiful paradox: it’s about artistry to achieve something that looks essentially un-cosmetic (thanks to ever more sophisticated and subtle makeup formulations and applications). Masking and morphing feels irrelevant this season; a quiet alchemy of product and technique that nonchalantly amplifies what is unique in the face is the new stealth wealth of makeup. “The new luxury is in individuality,” confirms Gordon Espinet.
There is a confident subtlety in all these beauty directions. “There is no absolute formula to how makeup has to look to appear modern now,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is a freedom to experiment and a confidence to break away from conventional means of constructing beauty.” Hence nuances of texture (transparent lightness is more important than heavy opacity this season), combined with unpredictable colors (“off” colour is distinctly “on” trend) and non-prescriptive placements form the new technical vocabulary that makes these trends look distinctly fresh and “now”.
Looks like Chanel is continuing its color streak from Spring all the way to Fall. At the Chanel A/W 2014 show, models showed off full brows and flawless skin (courtesy of the upcoming The Complexion Perfection Lumiere Velvet Foundation) paired with a dab of Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Canaille on the cheeks and a silvery eye contrasted with a colorful wing in shades of pink, green, orange and blue. How cool!
At the Lanvin A/W ’14 show, makeup artist Pat McGrath revisited the smudgy eye makeup look at Chanel Fall 2010 and gave it a twist. Models’ lids were covered with a cream-based black liner that was smudged out and faux lashes that were cut clean and square were added for contrast.
Makeup artist Pat McGrath never ceases to amaze me with her skills and creativity and at the Dior A/W 2014 show, she created a high-impact graphic glitter eye in shades of blue and khaki using theatrical latex paint.
At Anthony Vaccarello A/W ’14, the look was all about a graphic eye in shades of red and black. “Anthony’s collection is graphic and modern, edged with accents of color. I created a makeup look in the style of graphic fashion illustrations with ultrafine lines of black and red to accent the eye. The look is sophisticated and arty cool.” explained lead artist Tom Pecheux, Estée Lauder Creative Makeup Director.
At Missoni A/W 2014, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni created “cool girls in their boyfriends’ coats, at the bus stop at 6 in the morning” with blocks of graphic eyeliner and dewy skin.