Look#1: Underground Society
An aerodynamically misplaced streak of liner. A lip packed in Pigment or duo-chromatically constructed… a hardass brow. “It’s more of an attempt to project an attitude of individuality and a sense of ownership than about looking gorgeous in any traditional sense,” explains Terry Barber.
Of difference: we’re at a moment in beauty when identikit perfection looks positively passé. Touching on tribal elements with striking originality (Underground Society), taking a couture approach to nude makeup (Pale ‘N’ Dandy), feeling the heat of a carefree, sun-warmed vibe (American Nomad) or getting creative with the murano-glass palette being passed about (Dye-A-Tribe) feels eminently more interesting and appropriate. “The essential point with makeup this season is that it’s about projecting emotion and attitude, about not looking the same as everyone else,” explains Terry Barber.
At the Vivienne Tam Spring 2010 show, Gina Brooke from Shu Uemura, created a 60s look that was inspired by nature, butterflies and freedom. Models were given “clean, beautiful skin” along with heavy lashes on top and bottom and soft pink cheeks and lips.
If there’s one thing that A/W09 makeup is about, it’s a point of view. And a point of power. We’re past a point of girlish innocence and barely-there makeup, especially in a season where beauty is working alongside fashion that holds no bars in terms of brazen styling and attitude. Artists are talking about ‘emotive makeup’, and the spirit they are channeling is that of a woman who’s upbeat, in charge and in control. The main energy? Eighties. Hence, artists found their way to ultra-amplified lips and exuberant hues on the eyes (Who’s that Girl?) and an underground clubby elegance to black eye makeup (Lid Vicious) but also the more nuanced side of the era, picking up on the contoured, carved face that dominated the decade (Sculpture Club) or the satinized perfection and couture feel that moved makeup into the early Nineties (New Romantics). Speaking of technique, what’s back is one of absolute precision and accuracy. “Whatever the final look this season, it was always pretty obvious that the girl was wearing a structured, deliberate makeup” says Gordon Espinet. So, five minute makeup is over, for now. Time to roll out those brushes and get perfecting….